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Shoe Making Process

Shoe Making Process

Your shoes undergo an intricate manufacturing process to ensure they make it to you in nothing short of pristine condition.

Lussoti use two of the oldest shoe making techniques that date back to the mid 1800's.The construction used on most of our shoes are the Goodyear welted method devised by Charles Goodyear in around 1869 and the Blake construction method which was the technique devised by Lyman Reed Blake around 1858.

Using the finest Italian leathers, our craftsmen start by carefully cutting out the pattern for your perfect pair of shoes. Then, making a last – a special mould which ensures your new pair of shoes is crafted with care – we form the shape of each and every shoe that leaves our workshop.

Custom-making our collection, a final sample pair is produced following the necessary adjustments to our patterns. Of course, it’s vital our patterns are the right fit before we move on to the next step in the Lussoti production process.

Shoe uppers and linings make up the next stage of the process; it’s at this point that we’ll examine the leather for any defects, scars or marks before cutting each pair of shoes by hand. After, the uppers are ‘closed’ – a process which involves anything from punching holes for brogue styles to hand-sewing, machine-stitching or edge staining.

Hand eye coordination is key here, as our skilled Craftsmen hand stich the prepared sections together to form the shoe upper and fitting eyelets.

Insoles and soles are then cut from leather bends or rubber sheets ahead of ‘lasting’. This sees our team attach the material rib, before stitching it to the welt for our Goodyear construction, for the Blake construction the outer sole is stitched directly to the inner sole. With the heels built in-house, we’ll then select the appropriate lasts for the corresponding closed uppers.

The shoe begins to really take shape during the ‘lasting’ stage. The upper of the shoe will be tacked to the back to ensure it’s the correct height, before being pulled over at the toe by the lasting machine. Next, it will be side-lasted by hand, before the ‘bottom’ half of the shoe is prepared.

These are filled with cork or wooden shanks to provide support beneath the insoles, before being stitched to the welt. A process called ‘Bottom Levelling’ is next, in order to round the soles to the shape of the last we created earlier.

It’s now onto the finishing department, where the heels are attached and trimmed before being smoothed over with emery paper for their distinctive, glossy finish. At this stage, soles and heels will be stained for their shine and waterproof seal, with decorative finishes applied to give them a recognisable Lussoti aesthetic.

Hand polishing occurs next, with some leathers treated multiple times to achieve the desired effect. It’s only now that each pair will undergo a strict quality check, before the best bit: making their way to you.

Please note due to our shoes being fully handmade and coloured there may be slight differences in the colours fro the website screen. this could be down to leather, colour dyes, and also your screen monitor.